Methods for making greenhouses from a metal profile

The advantage of growing vegetables and crops in greenhouses is not only their protection from frost, bad climatic conditions, unfavorable weather, but also ensuring the necessary humidity and temperature conditions inside the building. All this contributes to the normal growth and development of plants. Every lover of work on a personal plot or a farmer who has the desire and ability will be able to create a greenhouse with his own hands. The result of efforts will be a large and healthy harvest that will pay off all the effort and money spent..


A self-built metal profile greenhouse is a durable, economical, reliable and demanded type of construction, the purpose of which is to grow various crops in greenhouses. If you take care of this structure correctly, then it can serve for many years, while not requiring large investments..

For the long and safe functioning of the greenhouse, as well as to avoid its destruction under load, the design and construction process should be carried out correctly.

Important points that need to be considered for the self-made construction of a greenhouse from a metal profile.

  1. The future territorial location of the greenhouse. Snow load is an aspect that plays an important role in the construction, it is on it that the features of the frame will depend.
  2. The type of crops that will be grown. This information will form the basis for calculating the dimensions of the greenhouse structure..
  3. Mobility. Depending on the preferences of the farmer, the greenhouse can be either stationary or assembled if necessary. With a stationary version, it is worth considering the need for ventilation, heating, watering and lighting..
  4. Material opportunities. Based on the budget allocated for the construction of the structure, materials for the coatings and the frame will be selected.
  5. Own skill and skills.

Advantages and disadvantages

A greenhouse made of metal profiles has many positive characteristics.. A self-assembled design is a lot of advantages.

  1. Choice. The gardener, who decided to build a greenhouse on his own, can choose its shape, size, material for making the frame and coatings.
  2. Profitability. A metal profile has a low cost, and a small amount of finance will be required for sheathing using polycarbonate or film. In addition, the home craftsman does not have to overpay for work and markups from suppliers. A do-it-yourself greenhouse will cost almost two times cheaper than a finished one purchased.
  3. Long service life. The galvanized profile is a durable metal base for a greenhouse, which is not afraid of corrosion. This design does not get damp, it is not afraid of constant moisture, rust. Proper construction and proper care are the factors that will help the greenhouse to serve its owner for many years..
  4. Mobility. Greenhouses that have a frame made of metal profiles weigh very little, their weight slightly increases when sheathing with film or polycarbonate. That is why it is possible to move such structures even without disassembling them into separate parts. These greenhouses can be easily disassembled and reassembled. This procedure does not take much time and effort..
  5. Ease of construction. To build a greenhouse yourself, you do not need to have special knowledge or skills. The ability to use common tools will be sufficient. And for people who have experience in construction, it will be even easier.

A greenhouse from a metal profile, in addition to the advantages, has one significant disadvantage.

In the winter period of the year, due to the influence of the snow mass, the frame and fasteners of the greenhouse may simply not be able to withstand, which will entail folding or destruction of the structure. In order for this problem not to arise, it is necessary to reinforce the frame. This is done by reducing the distance between the arches, introducing additional jibs and struts, which are designed to support the roof.

Despite some additional costs for the material, the user will be confident in the reliability of the structure and the safety of the plantings.. Also, do not forget about the timely cleaning of the greenhouse surface from precipitation. The second way to solve this situation will be the equipment of a removable roof. But this option is suitable only for those greenhouses that are used in the summer cottage period of the year; when it ends, the roof can be removed. In springtime, after cleaning and fixing the roof, you can still use the greenhouse..

Profile selection

The metal profile, which is used for the production of greenhouse structures, provides them with rigidity and stability, reliability, durability and tightness. Thanks to this material, the master can create a structure that has any length, width and height..

Galvanized profile for drywall has the following types.

  • U-shaped section. It is quite simple to install, and also contributes to completing the greenhouse with additional power parts. Thanks to the use of this profile, the structures have high stability and reliability, as well as the ability to withstand 150 kilograms of load per square meter..
  • V-shaped section has good rigidity and at the same time an affordable price. When installing the greenhouse, you should avoid any distortions, even minor ones. The thing is that such materials do not withstand high loads, for example, an abundant amount of snow in winter. The maximum load is considered to be 110 kilograms per square meter..
  • W-shaped section practically have no drawbacks, are characterized by strength and do not twist. Withstand the load, which should be maximum 230 kilograms.
  • Square and rectangular. Its rib has dimensions of 20 by 20, 20 by 40 and 20 by 60 millimeters. Provided the pipe wall is 0.01 cm thick, high load resistance will be significant..

    The galvanized profile pipe for the greenhouse can also be divided into two types.

    1. Arched. Found its application in the creation of structures of a complex arched type. Typically used for ceiling and wall decoration.
    2. Wall. Often used for mounting the frame of partitions between rooms. These pipes have high rigidity.

    For ceilings and walls, a plane CD profile is used, it is load-bearing, since it takes on the weight of the entire load.

    Frameworks are created from it. The length of the material is 30 or 40 cm, the height is 0.6 cm, and the width is 0.27 cm. The UD guide profile is designed to create a frame of the sheathing, into which the profile of the previous type is laid. The material is 0.28 cm wide and 0.27 cm high, often produced with a length of three or four meters and a wall thickness of up to 0.06 cm.

    A metal profile with a thickness of 0.06 cm should be used if it is necessary to form a suspended ceiling system. And material with a thickness of 0.04 cm is often used for wall cladding..

    Partition profiles are presented in two types.

    1. UW guides. This is the profile that is used in the installation of the bearing profile, they form a wall in the mounting plane. This profile is installed on floors, walls, ceilings.
    2. CW post and carrier profile, with its help, a frame is formed.

    The difference between the partition profile and the planar one is the sectional shape. In addition, the partition profile has a pair of longitudinal ribs, due to which the wall becomes stiffer. There is also a special type of profile – zigzag, the purpose of which is to firmly fix the film.

    Forms and designs

    Before the master has to start the drawings and preparation for the construction of a greenhouse from a metal profile, it is worth deciding what its shape and design will be.

    Most often, such options for greenhouses are built..

    1. Gable. This form is considered classic, as it has been known to people for many decades. The greenhouse looks like a simplified house with a gable roof. The advantages of this frame include high rigidity, no problems with snow accumulation on the roof, no need to purchase a flexible profile, the entire area of ​​the greenhouse can be used for agricultural purposes. Among the shortcomings, one can single out a large consumption of material, a complex structure and inconvenient roof sheathing..
    2. Arched. Such greenhouses are by far the most common. This is a set of profile arches that are connected to each other with ties. Farmers consider the advantages of such a greenhouse to be a simple design, a small amount of material consumption, resistance to wind gust, quick assembly of the frame and convenient cladding. Of the obvious disadvantages of such greenhouses, one can single out the need for constant cleaning from precipitation, the need to purchase a flexible profile, as well as tools to bend it. Also, the greenhouse has areas that are unusable..
    3. A-shaped. This greenhouse looks like a triangular roof that stretches upwards. Such greenhouses are rare due to their unusual design. The advantages of this design include the lack of worries with snow cleaning, simple assembly and original appearance. Cons: small amount of space to use, labor-intensive sheathing, inconvenient work in rows.
    4. Shed greenhouse. It looks like an ordinary greenhouse, the roof of which is tilted to one side. The pros and cons of this design are similar to the gable version. This greenhouse can be attached to a residential building, which will look quite organic.

    More complex types of greenhouses are also known, such as ball or dome.

    These greenhouses have a rather complex structure, so they are not considered a good option for self-erection from light metal. An interesting subspecies of construction with a gable roof is considered the Mitlider greenhouse. It is distinguished from the original by the location of the tops of the slopes, which are one above the other; in the resulting vertical wall, you can install the vents. This type of greenhouse is considered the best in terms of ventilation efficiency and circulation of air masses..

    Project and preparation

    After the shape of the structure is determined, you can begin to prepare for the construction of a greenhouse. The dimensions of the future heifer will be determined from the tasks that the greenhouse will perform. Farmers should decide how many beds will be in the greenhouse and their optimal location. The most acceptable width of the beds is 1.2 meters, while the side beds should not be wide.

    For the correct location of the structure, it is worth taking into account the following factors:

    • the ability to conveniently approach the greenhouse;
    • lighting;
    • evenness of the territory;
    • prevailing wind direction.

    Light regime is an important factor for plant nutrition, growth and development. A place with poor lighting is the absence of a possible planting of plants, which they like light in winter. It is possible to correct the situation by installing artificial light, which will increase the financial costs of the construction of the structure..

    If a greenhouse is being built that will be used only in the spring, then it is worth choosing a site with good lighting in the morning. For a winter galvanized greenhouse, you need to select an open area where there are no trees and buildings. In a permanent, year-round greenhouse, the direction of the wind is vital to the plants. Such a greenhouse should be well protected from cold wind and heat losses in winter..

    It is better to stop your attention in an area where the surface is perfectly flat..

    Before starting construction, the territory must be prepared:

    • removing garbage;
    • leveling the soil without compaction, so as not to disrupt its fertile function.

        The following tools and materials must be prepared:

        • tape measure for taking measurements;
        • galvanized profile, the amount of which will be based on the dimensions of the greenhouse;
        • self-tapping screws for metal;
        • screwdriver;
        • knife or scissors for cutting metal;
        • grinder;
        • polycarbonate sheets;
        • plumb line;
        • door package;
        • rubber pads for screws;
        • building level;
        • jigsaw.

        After the shape is selected and the necessary materials for the manufacture of a greenhouse, as well as tools, are prepared, you can proceed to the design.

        For this, millimeter or cell paper, a pencil and an eraser are taken. A simpler option for creating a project would be to use a computer program. If you have experience, then such a drawing can be created using 3D modeling.

        Initially, it is worth deciding on the size of the structure, while you need to proceed from the dimensions of an ordinary polycarbonate sheet. Also, do not forget about the connection method during cladding, which can be either using a connecting profile or overlapping. Often the standard greenhouse length is 2-3 meters and the width is 4, 6, 8 or 10 meters..

        An arched greenhouse is rarely made higher than 2 meters 10 centimeters. As for the gable structures, there are no such restrictions, the main thing is not to violate the angle of inclination of 25-30 degrees. The dimensions of the doorway should be designed with dimensions that are convenient for use. Do not forget about the vents, especially for large greenhouses, since it is in them that the plants will need good ventilation..

        At the end of the design, it is necessary to come up with and draw on the drawing the connection of the profile material together, into the frame. After carefully calculating the required amount of material, it is worth adding ten percent to the result obtained for a possible marriage..

        Foundation construction

        Some people often think about the need for a foundation before building a greenhouse. The greenhouse structure is not heavy, so there should be no sagging from its own weight. But a greenhouse that does not have a solid foundation can be blown away by the wind. Also, the functions of the foundation under the greenhouse include protecting crops from drafts, freezing, attacks by rodents, various pests and parasites..

        When choosing a place for construction, you should give preference to a flat area without a slope, which has rich soil and there is no shade from buildings and fences. The design, which consists of a bar, is the simplest and most affordable.

        There are other options for creating a greenhouse base, but they are expensive and complex in design, which is not considered the best option if you need to make a greenhouse yourself.

        Stages of foundation construction.

        1. Clearing the territory for a future greenhouse from debris, stones, weeds.
        2. Markup. In this process, you need to use pegs and reinforcement and thread tension between them..
        3. Determination of the soil state. If the soil is characterized by hardness, it is not worth deepening the foundation made of lumber material, as it may be necessary for trenching.
        4. With good softness of the earth along the greenhouse perimeter, it is worth digging a trench, which coincides in width with the timber and has a depth equal to the shovel bayonet.
        5. Tamping of the trench bottom, followed by backfilling with sand or gravel. In this case, the layer of the embankment should not be more than twenty percent of the deepening of the ditch..
        6. Measuring and cutting bars in accordance with the size of the greenhouse. The best choice of material in this case will be larch, as it has resistance to decay and mold attack..
        7. Treatment of wood material with an antiseptic. Alternatively, you can use copper sulfate, bitumen, oil for cars.
        8. Assembling a bar in the form of a rectangular box. The connection can be made with pins or long self-tapping screws. Many builders prefer to use galvanized corners in their work..
        9. Transfer of the timber structure to the trench, where it is laid and leveled. For this purpose, you can add sand, small planks or soil.
        10. Drilling through-type holes in the corners and inserting meter reinforcement pins into them. Next, you need to drive the latter into the soil in order to securely fix the foundation, which can be carried away by a strong wind..
        11. Filling up the existing slots, which are located on the border between the trench and the foundation. For this, it will be advisable to use sand, gravel or earth..
        12. To provide the wooden base with good protection, it is necessary to cover it with a roofing felt layer or some other material for waterproofing.

        If the site where the greenhouse is planned to be erected is located on swampy soil or a surface with significant irregularities, then the use of a pile foundation will be advisable. It clogs or is screwed into the ground lower than the level to which the soil freezes.

        In an area where constant dampness is observed, a greenhouse made of a metal profile can be installed on a foundation made of pillars. For this, holes are dug, a pillow is mounted, roofing pillars are placed, into which the reinforcement is immersed, and everything is poured with concrete..

        Also, farmers often use metal and asbestos pipes, brickwork or stone.

        Frame assembly and sheathing

        The most popular types of greenhouses that people build on their own are today a gable profile structure for drywall, as well as an arched type from a V-shaped profile..

        A gable greenhouse consists of the following parts:

        • pediment of the main and secondary type;
        • side walls;
        • roofs.

        One or both gables must have a doorway that is assembled separately. Its assembly includes a base, vertical posts, upper horizontal beam, roof and jibs.

        Step by step assembly.

        1. The profile that will serve as the base of the structure is measured and cut to the required size. A suitable option for such work is considered to be a UD profile or ceiling profile, on which the ends of the bends are bent, at the points of entry of the vertical posts.
        2. In the main material, it is required to make holes through which it will be fixed to the foundation. The distance between the holes should be between 75 and 150 centimeters.
        3. It is required to insert the extreme vertical racks with shelves to the left and right. Carry out fastening using self-tapping screws for each connection.
        4. In a similar way, it is worth inserting the vertical internal racks. Using a horizontal lintel, it will be necessary to form a frame for the door. The latter can be fastened in several ways: by a T-shaped connector or by trimming the edges at the profile lintel, as well as fixing on the formed petal.
        5. A surface horizontal beam is installed from the same type of profile that was used for work with the base.
        6. Profile rafters are attached with a gable wall, as well as to each other by undercutting the sides and forming petals.
        7. Gable rafters should be equipped with fights and jibs to make the structure stronger.

            According to the above scheme, the construction of the second pediment should be carried out. The next stage of work will be the creation of the side walls..

            Step-by-step instructions for work.

            1. Measure and cut the material by drilling holes in it that will be used to fix it to the base. Petals should be left at the edges, using which the side walls will be connected to the gables.
            2. You will need to prepare vertical racks with the desired height by connecting them to each other using self-tapping screws. The distance from rack to rack should be half to one meter. The shorter it is, the higher the strength of the structure..
            3. A horizontal profile must be installed on top of the racks. The connection should be made using self-tapping screws..
            4. Two gables and two side walls must be mounted on the foundation, securing with long self-tapping screws or anchor bolts.

            The final stage in the formation of the frame will be the arrangement of the roof.

            The principle of its collection is similar to the pediment. The only thing is that the rafters should be mounted on the upper horizontal beams using petals.

            The construction market is full of V-shaped arched greenhouses. But if the owner has a desire, tools, materials and a few skills, then such a greenhouse can be built on your own..

            Double bent frame can be welded or built with gables.

            1. Cut off the profiles that will become part of the arched greenhouse. The optimal amount is considered to be five. In order for each of them to become bent, it is worth using a pipe bender.
            2. Holes should be drilled in the fasteners. To prevent the elements from being affected by corrosion, they can be processed using cold galvanizing.
            3. It is possible to connect the system of arcs into a single whole, which has a half-bent type, using a nut and a bolt in the right amount.
            4. Connect each jib and crossbar to the arch.
            5. Using corners and triangular plates, vertical posts, a frame, as well as oblique crossbars are mounted on the pediments. In addition, it is worthwhile to secure the corners for horizontal greenhouse screeds in advance..
            6. On the gables, it is necessary to fix the horizontal screeds of the side and top type.
            7. Intermediate arches must be bolted to the tie-downs.
            8. It is required to repeat the previous two stages several times in order to form a solid greenhouse frame..
            9. On the reverse side, you need to assemble a second pediment, in which there will be no frame under the door.
            10. The frame that turned out must be attached to the foundation with corners and self-tapping screws. Then check the reliability of each of the fasteners.

              The very last step on the way to the finished greenhouse will be its sheathing. Farmers often use polycarbonate with a thickness of 4 millimeters for this purpose..

              Sheathing stages.

              1. Unpacking the material and determining the side of the stabilizing coating.
              2. Cutting the material into two halves.
              3. Removing the protective film and gluing each end, using perforated tape at the bottom, and at the top – the material for sealing.
              4. Applying one piece of a sheet that has been cut to the gable so that the stabilizing cover is on the outside.
              5. Fastening polycarbonate sheets to the pediment using roofing screws and plastic thermal washers.
              6. Trimming unnecessary elements from materials. Cutting planes under doors and windows.
              7. Repetition of the entire scheme described above for the second pediment.
              8. Laying sheets on the roof, greenhouse walls. Fastening must be carried out with a stabilizing layer upwards. It is worth overlapping sheets in the neighborhood.

              In addition to polycarbonate, gardeners often use polyethylene film to cover the greenhouse..

              This material is attached using planks. They must be screwed on with self-tapping screws or using hoops. Greenhouses made of double-glazed windows are considered reliable structures in our time, therefore, if you have financial resources, you can build such a structure.

              From the foregoing, it follows that with a great desire and minimal costs, any owner can build a greenhouse from a metal profile on his own. As a result of hard work, you can get a reliable, lightweight, strong, durable structure, which is characterized by high thermal insulation characteristics and resistance to temperature extremes..

              For an overview of a greenhouse made by hand from a metal profile and polycarbonate, see the next video.

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